Not a piece of cake
Ice climbing in Canada in early November is not a piece of cake: Cold temps, thin anorexic ice, brittle and untrustworthy snow packs, exhausting ascents in serious remoteness, long hours of darkness, treacherous driving on iced up roads, serious deprivation of sleep…
We have ventured into the Rocky Mountains Range for six trips now and know the drill.
But rumours can be heart each winter anew, uttered only in hushed up whispers amongst core climbers…rumours of outstanding ice lines building up already in November, crystal by crystal, deep in the untamed Canadien wilderness. It’s a faint promise passionate ice climbers are craving for nevertheless, beyond every rational reason. However unsweet the cake, however faint the information, however thin and brittle the ice - the whispers gain momentum until those ice climbers find themselves feverishly searching for ways and means to venture into the realms of uncertainty in search for those promised, mysterious ice lines.
This time however, the calling set out in a rather unfavourable way: all reasonable flights to Canada were already booked out. The once remaining were of doubtful quality. It was only with a stout heart we pressed the ‚booking‘- button, ending up with a flight schedule that started at Torino airport to Madrid, followed by a brief flight to Heathrow/London and finishing up with a long-haul flight to Calgary. We knew too well from the beginning on that this was going to be a very long journey including a good hit on the nervous system. - And we were right! After hours and hours of check-ins, cancelled flights and flight shifts, alternating waiting and running, after 30 hours between over the clouds and down on the ground we finally found ourselves on the road again- away from sizzling Cities and towards the calm realms of Canmore. A long night of sleep brought as back to 'normal' and we were psyched to begin the ice-adventure.
First thing we found out was only of a (literally) mild surprise: Temperatures have been around subzero for a longer period after a serious spell of cold, allowing the ice to form in a more constant way and thus leading to much larger ice formations than usual.
Only shortly after our arrival we found ourselves high up on the legendary Stanley Wall, climbing 'Nemesis' for a sorrow warm up.
Two days later we were on our way up the Icefieldsparkway and saw ice forming nearly everywhere! White gems in every corner, gleaming from dark Rock walls like sharpened teeth: a delighting sight, but also disturbing one!
As we approached Mount Wilson we encountered a 'Virtual Reality' much thicker than ever seen before. The last (3) times we've climbed it had always been close to a nightmare. On the second half there were huge Medusas formed which offered real climbing movements. The last upper part was built this time as a thin, steep curtain. The ice was much more ‚transformed' this time, not at all formed in those tiny new built little icicles glued together as questionable substance, normally the case on this ice fall. No, this was a different reality and one I preferred when leading it.
Next day found us on the Highway to the Kananaskis, heeding for 'WhiteMan falls' and 'Red Man soars'. The ice amounts were huge and the the candle big. Matthias chose to climb this fall in one outstanding pitch which turned out to be exceptional climbing.
Next goal was the 'Weeping Wall’. Although a big classic in the Canadien Rockies we found it deserted. We climbed the lower part and opted to leave the second, upper part due to the very high avalanche danger. But we came back only a couple of days to climb the central Pillar in the lower part and connecting this time the the upper part via ‚Nasty Habbits‘.
Another great line on this trip became 'Shooting Star' which comes in only rarely. Its appearance is of pure aesthetic. Not only did we find great climbing in the lower part. We also found a candle at the upper wall, which was of such exceptional beauty that everybody of the team climbed it, which included for this day Mr. Jeff Mercier.
Tanja Schmitt on Shooting Star, Canada - picture by Matthias Scherer
To give our up-heated mind and blood a rest we went to Haffner Creek and gave ‚Caveman’(M10 ) a shot, which each of us could sent after some work.
Caveman (M10) - picture by Matthias Scherer
But the Highlight of our Ice Trip should become a line, which would form every ten years and is then more than often threatened by huge avalanches. Its unfavourable south facing position makes it furthermore the victim of a hungry sun, only too keen of gobbling beastly on scarcely formed blossoms: The upper Tabernac Bowl and its outstanding line `Les Miserable’ is one only rarely climbed for obvious reasons. We’ve observed and circled this line for years now like hungry predators tiptoeing around their prey but this time we were on the catch. Avalanche danger was acceptable and the temperatures stable so that we dared to give it a try. Heike let the impressive first pitch called ‚Oh le Tabernac’ in one long climb and Matthias and me followed up. We ascended the snowy part towards the wall and hesitated only for one brief second, confirming and checking on each other for one last time. I found a great safe spot for shelter from which Matthias would eventually go for the lead. Great, unforgettable climbing followed and a lack of describing words. Topping out on the line we were relieved and happy at the same time. The scenery around us was of stunning beauty and we soaked it in with every breath.
Our trip would soon come to an end, but what had started on wafer-thin rumours, had gone into a transcendent membrane as a lived, non-virtual REALITY.